Fin

I’m sitting at my kitchen table in the US, eating a very american lunch of chili with tortilla chips, and listening to my siblings plan out their trip visiting me in Morocco in a couple months. The past week has been a flurry of activity and getting myself back into my winter break schedule- bikram yoga, babysitting cousins, eating too many sugar cookies, and taking long walks soaking up the December sun, which has been burning a little extra hot this year. I left France a little over a week ago, but the distinct differences between my life in Paris and my life in small town, everything closed by 9pm Chelmsford has made it seem a world away.

Coming home created a mix of sadness for leaving Paris, happiness to be home for the holidays, and anticipation for my next semester in Morocco. I’ve been trying to focus on being home and on planning my next adventures, but I often find my mind slipping back to Paris and my life there. I am overwhelmingly grateful for the opportunity I had to live in that beautiful city. I personally feel as though I had a successful experience, so I’d like to share some tips for anyone heading abroad for a semester.

The biggest thing: Decide your goals before the start of your semester 

Do you want to practice the language? Make local friends? Explore all of the city’s art museums? Eat your way through Europe? Decide what your goal is and stick to it throughout the semester.

Going into the semester, I knew I wanted to improve my language skills and meet local people. But above all, and I think those two goals are a part of this, I wanted to create a life, however temporary it may be, in Paris. For the rest of the semester, I made sure that what I did helped me reach those goals.

Soo…I suppose what I am writing is really for people who want to create a life and build connections in their city. If that’s not your goal, I don’t think this blog post will help you. That’s not to say that prioritizing travel or eating, or going to all the museums are not worthwhile, it’s just that I can’t provide much advice on those things.

Here we go:

1. Do an internship

Most programs give students the opportunity to participate in an internship. These can either be for credit or not. I did an internship in a French NGO which was for credit. To get credit, I had to work a minimum of 10 hours a week and participate in an internship seminar. Each university has specific requirements, so make sure to check with your adviser before you commit.

The NGO, Enfants & Développement, was an amazing experience in a lot of different ways. Firstly, I worked almost exclusively in French (besides some translating), which really helped me to improve my everyday french and my professional french. Working in an office with French people gave me the opportunity to interact regularly in the language. I also learned tons about NGOs and how they function. Since I want to work in an NGO, it was a perfect fit. It also was a great resume builder.

At first, applying for the internship can seem like a lot of work- writing resumes and cover letters in a foreign language is no easy task. It’s 100% worth it. Do it.

2. Volunteer

I didn’t volunteer, but if I hadn’t done an internship, I definitely would have liked to. A good place to look is local american community centers. For example, I saw a volunteer opportunity to teach french to refugees through the American Cathedral website. It’s a good way to meet local people and to become more involved in the local culture. I’ll be doing a volunteer placement in Morocco, and am eagerly awaiting the day that I find out my placement.

3. Join a club. 

You have interests. Other people have interests. Join a club with other people who share your interests. A great way to find clubs is Meetup, an app (on the iphone). You enter your interests and the app helps you find groups that focus on your interests- like yoga groups, or hiking, or art museums. It’s an easy way to meet people that you can connect to.

In Paris, I joined the Club International des Jeunes à Paris  (The Club for International Young People in Paris). I went to a weekly conversation workshop, an hour in French, and hour in English. We always got drinks afterwards. Not only did I get to practice French , I met a ton of people from all over. A lot of French people join in order to practice their English skills for jobs, so it’s not only foreigners. The club also plans trips, excursions, open mic nights, and tons of other events. In addition, if you meet people, the often plan events like bowling or soirées outside of the club. To join for the year is 15 euros, but its worth every centime.

4. Don’t go out in large American groups. 

Europeans stay away from large American groups like its the plague. Try to limit your group, and its more likely you’ll meet people.

5.  Don’t be discouraged. 

You’re going to feel as though you’re trapped in an American bubble. It will be difficult to meet people. You aren’t going to leave the semester with a throng of French people that are now your besties. That’s ok. Just try to make a couple connections with a few people. The more you get involved in events outside your abroad program, the more likely it will happen.

France is an amazing city, but what is a city without its people? Fall in love with Paris, but also fall in love with Parisians.

Back Home

Sunday, I'm going back home. Back to Massachusetts, my first home. And even though I say I'm going back home, in reality, it's not so simple. 

If there is anything that I have learned about leaving the place where I grew up, first when I left to go to university and then when I left to go to Paris, is that what I consider home cannot be limited to once place. 

3. That's the number of homes I now have. The number of places where I've woken up day after day to live my life. 3 places where I know the smells,  the sounds. 3 places where I've grown roots, made connections with people, with places . Massachusetts, DC, Paris. 

I always thought that a person's home is where they were whole. The place which encompassed their whole life- their family, and friends, and work, their possessions. 

Now, I know that I can never be whole in any of my homes. One place does not encompass my whole life. I've left pieces of me scattered in three different locations. I'll never be able to pick them up and put them back together. 

At 18, I moved away. And I missed my home. I thought of the sound of cars rushing down the street at night , of the crickets chirping outside my window, of the night time news that my father watched as I fell asleep.  I thought of the smell of freshly mown grass, of pine, of the outside before it began to snow, of spices that filled the house while my mother cooked. I wasn't whole where I was, a whole part of me was in a different place. 

And then I returned home. And I thought everything would be the same as it was. But I'd lie in bed with the sound of my father watching television and the smell of the dinner my mother had just cooked and I'd think of DC. Of the sound of helicopters over my head,  the pulse of the metro reverberating throughout the city, the dusty smell of my dorm. Things weren't the same. I built another home miles away, and the two could never be reconciled, could never become one. 

And this week I'll go back to my first home and I'll lie in bed and think of Paris in addition to DC. I'll think of the smell of cigarettes that was impossible to avoid, the smell of autumn and leaves, even the smell of urine- in the metro, along the Seine, in every alley. I'll think of the sound of children playing in park 12 stories below my window, the sound of my host mother's telephone which so often woke me up, and of sirens constantly ringing throughout the city.   

And I'll know that Paris was my home, even if it was only for a little while, and even if I was never whole there. 

Thoughts on this week's terrorist attack*

*Note:  I wrote this post the day following the terrorist attacks that killed over 100 people in Paris. I posted it on my other blog, and am now deciding to post it on this one. Anything that I've added /edited will be in bold. 

Firstly, I’d like to start off this post by thanking everyone who checked in with me to see if I was alright! It was heartwarming to see the amount of people concerned for my safety. Everyone, you rock.

As you all know by now, overnight a series of coordinated terrorist attacks struck Paris, leaving over 100 dead and many more wounded, including almost 100 critically wounded. Just recently, ISIS took responsibility for the attack.

I luckily was nowhere near the attack. That evening,  I headed home to eat some food, finish an assignment due by midnight, and sleep. I didn’t even know about the attacks until my roommate and I started receiving messages from friends and family back home in the US checking to see if we were all right.

Because I really was not involved and unaware of what was going on, in addition to the fact that I am here in France as a visitor (even if I am an extended one), I feel very much as though I am an onlooker in this situation.

Like any person, I’m experiencing a range of emotions, including anger, frustration, confusion, sadness, etc. However, something that always comforts me in times of tragedy is to see the support of people around the world.

So, even when tragedy strikes, it’s still possible to see that humans, for the most part, are good. Here’s how we know,

#porteouverte was trending on Twitter last night. This “open door” hashtag allowed people who needed a place to stay because they could not return to their homes, hotels, wherever, to direct message people who were willing to let people stay at their place for the night  and find shelter.

The Facebook check in  (that has been used before during other events, it’s not new) was a really cool idea, allowing everyone to alert their friends if they were safe. In addition, you could alert other people’s friends if you knew that they were not in a safe situation.

The images of monuments and places around the world lit up in bleu-blanc-rougein solidarity with France. It’s a wonderful way to show support for the victims.

The witness accounts of people going out of their way to help the injured proves that selfishness is not our modus operandi.

After terrible events, I will always hear people talking about how morally bankrupt our world is. But, I never see that. There has always been bad people who do terrible things. But the outpouring of love, support, and help during tragic times shows me that the world remains, on the contrary,  a morally rich place.

That doesn’t mean that I don’t have my own share of frustrations or things that I am worried about as a result of this attack.

I am worried/concerned for the victims and their families. My thoughts go out to all the victims of these attacks.

I am worried that these attacks will cause a period of extreme Islamophobia, as typically happens after a large terrorist attack. So let’s all remember that there billions of Muslims around the world who are just as sickened by these actions as the rest of us.

I am worried that the extremist, right wing, racist, Islamophobic,anti-immigrant political party will gain a lot of seats in the upcoming elections in France during the month of December. This political party is not the answer to France’s problems.

*These regional elections just occurred. France has two rounds of election.  The far right partly dominated the first round of the elections in France. Happily, they were defeated in the second round and hold the majority in no regions in the country. 

I am worried for the refugees. I am afraid that they may become the scapegoats of this situation.

*During the days following the attack, the French president François Hollande reaffirmed that France would remain committed to accepting refugees. 

And finally, I’m frustrated that the media failed us this week.

Did you know that in Beirut, Lebanon, ISIS carried out a terrorist attack a day before the attacks in Paris which also resulted in massive casualties? Maybe not. Or that a bunch of people were killed by a terrorist attack at a funeral in Baghdad?

While the Paris attacks have been getting wall-to-wall coverage, these attacks were barely mentioned. No Facebook check in was put in place for the victims of these attacks. I’ve haven’t seen anyone making the Lebanese flag or the Iraqi flag the backdrop to their profile.

So why is it only an outrage when ISIS kills Westerners? Why don’t world leaders tell us that the attacks in Beirut and Baghdad are also attacks against humanity?

We must stop looking at this problem as a conflict between Western Nations and the Middle East. ISIS is killing Middle Easterners too. Middle Easterners want an end to this terrorism too.

I stand with Paris, and with Beirut, and with Baghdad.

7 ways that living in Paris changes you

1. Hugs seem oddly up close and personal.

I’ve never been one for hugging, just ask my father. I’d much prefer to keep my distance, which in America translates to a simple smile and wave, or a quick pat on the shoulder when I greet someone if I can get away with it. I often don’t, as Americans just really love to hug people. That’s why me and France get along.

In France, to greet an acquaintance or a friend on fait la bise– two quick kisses on both cheeks.  For many Americans, the thought of that makes them uncomfortable. A kiss? Isn’t that a bit personal? Well, frankly, no, because it is not so much of a kiss as it is a quick tap of your cheek to the other person’s cheek. Quick, harmless, and most importantly, not smothering, like a hug à l’américaine.

Now, when I am meeting up with Americans and they go for the hug, I feel a little extra squeamish. While I am accustomed to it, I so much prefer the french way.

** Make sure to always say or ask On fait la bise? and not On baise? They are easy to confuse but the latter means something a little more…intimate.

2. Americans just seem so loud. 

If a bunch of Americans having a conversation was equivalent to a lion’s roar, a European conversation would be on par with a kitty meowing. It appears that Europeans operate a fewer decibels lower than their North American neighbors (With one exception: when they’re watching the coupe du monde for Rugby in a bar). Which means that for the first few months you’ll struggle with remembering to be quiet. And then you’ll get used to it, and spend the next few months judging all the Americans who haven’t quite mastered that skill yet.

3. You love how waiter’s interact with you in France

First of all, no tips. Second of all, they don’t badger you with “How is everything going?” or “Can I get you the check?” or “Are you all enjoying yourselves?” during the entire meal. In France, your waiter takes your order, brings you the food, and then lets you eat in peace. No asking how the meal is going, and no pressuring you to hurry up because there is a 45 minute wait to be seated. It’s nice to be able to enjoy a meal without constant interruptions, and to feel as though you can stay as long as you’d like.

Beware, this means that you have to ask for the check. To do so, grab the waiter’s attention and say “L’addition, s’il vous plaît”. 

4. You get used to not smiling at people in the street. 

For me, I never smile at people that I pass by on the street in Boston or in Washington. In my hometown, I typically do, but that’s just the small town atmosphere. However, for a lot of Americans it can be hard to not smile at people. In France, smiling at someone in the street means you’re trying to hit on them or flirt with them. So unless that’s what you’re trying to do, keep those lips zipped.

5. To leave the house, you have to get dressed up a little. 

The stereotypes are true, Parisians dress well. Now, this doesn’t mean they’re constantly sporting the most recent Gucci heels (Does Gucci sells heels? I don’t even know? If not, my bad.), they just look polished and put together. That means no sweatpants or baggy pants. Throw on some dark jeans, run a brush through that hair, and wrap a scarf around your neck. This starts to feel normal, and you would feel weird if you didn’t put a little effort into your appearance before leaving the house.

6. Walking becomes your only form of exercise. 

Gyms are expensive everywhere, but there especially expensive in France on an abroad student’s budget. Yoga could be possible, but I don’t want to disturb the neighbor’s downstairs every time I fall out of my headstand. But as you start to realize the amount of calories you’ve consumed by eating chocolate mousse and pastries loaded with butter every day, you realize the need for exercise. And what better way to explore the city and get exercise by walking everywhere? Especially when your walks include views like this:

   
 
7. You become a food snob. 

With 90 cent baguettes fresh out of the boulangerie oven, 4 euro wine that tastes better than some of the $20 wine you’ve bought in the US, and more varieties of cheese than you can dream of, it’s hard not to become a snob about the food you eat. Not to mention, the EU actually has regulations that keeps hormones, antibiotics, and other gross stuff out of foods. You start to rationalize: “well, this food is super unhealthy, but at least it’s not full of hormones like it would be in the US”. And then you promptly stuff it in your face.

From Notre Dame to a Parisian "No Go Zone"

There is no such thing as a Parisian No Go Zone. I’m making fun of Fox News. I’ll explain later.

This weekend I welcomed my first American visitor in Paris, one of my roommates from home who is studying in London for the semester. Saturday was our day of fun filled activities - we walked a total of 11 miles (or 15ish kilometers if you want to talk like a European)….which may be why it is 1 in the afternoon and I still haven’t had the will to get up from my bed. 

We started off our day doing touristy things in the heart of the city, at the Notre Dame Cathedral and along the Seine. We ate a delicious breakfast of coffee and croissants along the Seine:

And then took some pictures of Notre Dame:

The Seine and Notre Dame were, as always, beautiful. I always love to head to the side of the cathedral and and check out the gargoyles on the side (see the 2nd picture of the cathedral) They’re super creepy. You can also go inside the cathedral for free, or climb to the top for a pretty view. You do have to pay to go the the top. 

After gallivanting around Île de la Cité, we headed over to a neighborhood called Belleville for a guided tour of street art in Paris. I had won it through my abroad center. 

After the Charlie Hebdo attacks in January of this year, news reports on Fox News declared “There are a whole lot of places in and around Paris where they ( the French police)  are still afraid to go”. Check out the video clip here.

Well Belleville is one of those neighborhoods that Fox News considers a “No Go Zone”. That’s an absolute lie. The authorities to have control over these neighborhoods, and there is rule of law. I had a great day walking around Belleville, and never once felt threatened. Don’t trust Fox News,people.  

The street art in this neighborhood was captivating. Here are some pictures of some of the things we saw:

That reads “Drunk off life”.

Yes, that’s a piece of pizza that is high.

In the neighborhood, there were whole streets covered in street art. It was a really cool sight. 

The tour guide talked about all of the artwork-whether he knew the artist, what the inspiration was for these artists, and some funny stories about the things street artists will do to finish a project. 

For example, I really like his story of an artist who paints a lot of cats around the city. He painted this one here:

It is a little hard to see, but the cat is on the beige building under the “CON”. This artist painted cats just like this in the metro in one of the long hallways connected one line to another, I believe in the metro strop Chatelet. 

The city was really mad that he had painted these cats. He was found and faced trial. During his trial, he argued that in the winter, when all the Parisians are depressed because of the winter and the cold and the dark, the cats will help bring life back into the city and warm the hearts of the Parisians. 

He won the case based off that argument, and wasn’t fined.

I really enjoyed this tour, because it gave me the opportunity to see a neighborhood and a subculture of Paris that I wouldn’t have on my own. I definitely have a new appreciation for street art too. 

The one downside: I brought Lianne because the flyer said the tour would be in English. Turned out it was in French, so Lianne was a little lost the whole time. And I learned how exhausting it was to translate for 2 or 3 hours straight.

Afterwards, we went to Montmarte, stumbled across a parade that was giving out free wine, and then checked out this beauty: 

11 miles and two pairs of very sore feet later, we were back at my apartment stuffing pasta, wine, and chocolate mousse into our faces. 

A Conversation with NPR’s France Correspondent Eleanor Beardsley

Being an American in Paris is no easy task. For those of us who grew up across the pond, adjusting to the culture can be quite the challenge. Some days, it feels as though as though you are constantly one faux pas away from some inexcusable cultural mistake. Those days, it’s best to rely on the support of the extensive American expat community present in the city.

Eleanor Beardsley is one impressive member of the American expat community here in Paris. As the NPR ( National Public Radio) correspondent for France, most Americans have the opportunity to be captivated by her stories on their local public radio station. Her stories cover everything from the shortage of baguettes in Paris during the month of August to the fall the of Tunisian dictator during the Arab Spring.

( I highly suggest listening to one of her articles, Read this one, titled “Parisians on Hunt for Baguettes as Bakers get the Nod to Take Vacation”. It perfectly sheds light on two essential aspects of French culture: the need for baguettes and cigarettes.)

Each Thursday, my center holds cultural events that help us learn more about the city and the culture we are immersed in, always followed by a goûter of wine, bread and cheese. It is très à la française, This week, Eleanor came to talk about her experiences as a correspondent.  Immediately, her charming South Carolina twang began to relax the room full of culture-shocked, America-deprived 20 somethings. This women, she was the best of both worlds- someone with an established and remarkable career with over 10 years of experience living in France who we’d also feel comfortable grabbing a cup of tea and sitting down to gossip all things français. We talked journalism, but we also delved into the intricacies of being an American in the City of Lights.

She gave off the impression off being effortlessly integrated into French life while also being unabashedly American. The most poignant piece of advice for a room full of novices was her response to my roommate, who is having a particularly tough week of culture shock. All week, Hayley has struggled with many cultural differences. These differences, while they may at first seem insignificant, do take a toll after spending an extended period of time in a different country. She complains, “Why can’t I just smile to someone in the ruewithout them thinking I am hitting on them? I’m just being human!” and “Why don’t people bother to slide over when they walk towards you on the sidewalk? How come they just run into you instead, like you don’t exist?”.

Eleanor’s response: “We have every right to be here. Don’t let them convince you otherwise”.

Cheers to another day of being here, learning to be effortlessly integrated and unabashedly American.

8 things that all Americans will get sick of while living in France

France, I love you despite your imperfections (and I really should be saying things I’m not used to and not imperfections). But sometimes, you make me want to scream, “J’en ai marre!” 

1. Dog poop everywhere. 

If you ever feel like visiting France, while you’re there don’t for one second let yourself get distracted from sidewalk in front of you. Why? Because if you do, there’s a 150% chance you’re going to step in a heaping pile of dog poop. It’s like pooper scoopers never got invented here. And I’m not talking about in parks, or off to the side of the sidewalk. I mean there will be dog poop right in the absolute center of the sidewalk. You’ve been warned.

2. French keyboards

Ok, for all you travelers, you don’t have to worry about this one. However, if you ever study or work in France for a period of time, you know the struggle. Even though the rest of the world has pretty much the standardized qwerty keyboard, France decided to get its own. Prepare to perpetually type “q’s” when you want to be typing “a’s”. The worst part though? When you start to get used to the french keyboard. I’ll come back from a day of typing on a French keyboard at my internship, and start to do my homework on my American laptop. I’ll have gotten used to using the French one all day, so I’ll start messing up with the keyboard I’ve been using since I could type on a computer. And then the cycle repeats itself.

3. Nothing open on Sundays 

Ok, so this one I wasn’t sure if I wanted to put down. In some ways, I really do appreciate the fact that stores are, for the most part, closed on Sundays so that everyone can just take the day to relax. No pressure to do chores, just go sit in a park and soak up some vitamin d. While I like the idea of it in theory, it can get pretty annoying when you forgot all the stores were closed so you didn’t buy anything to cook for dinner. Prepare to spend the day eating whatever you have left in the cabinet, aka some white rice and one egg. How does that sound for a nice Sunday dinner?

4. Celsius and the Metric system

Ok, this one I have to blame on America. Literally everyone else in the world uses Celsius and the metric system. Why? Because it f****** makes sense. Why does water freeze at 32 degrees Fahrenheit? Why is there 12 inches in a foot? What the hell is a yard? Why America, why? Life would be a lot easier if I didn’t have to learn a whole new temperature and metric system while I am here.

5.PDA 

So, perhaps this is a personal pet peeve of mine and the rest of you won’t be annoyed with it. But the amount of pda here is pretty ridiculous. Like please, I’d prefer not to see your tongue down her throat on my way back from class, thank you very much.

6. The rain

So, this kinda came as a shock to me. It rains in Paris. Like a lot. Or maybe it doesn’t but it feels like it rains all the time here. And yeah, Paris is prettiest in the rain, I know the saying. It may be prettiest, but that doesn’t stop me from disliking how soaked my jeans have gotten from a surprise rain shower.

7. When you speak to someone in French, they notice your accent, and they respond in English. 

This happens a lot. You go up to someone, perhaps a waiter, or a person behind the desk at a store or a museum, and you address them in French. Not bad French, nothing that would make them cringe. But you have an accent, and so they respond in English. Now, I know that it’s meant with the best of intentions. They’re probably thinking, oh, I’ll just make it easier on this person and respond in their language. It’s the least I can do. Still, it’s super annoying. I’m here because I want to learn the language, so in my case, this gesture isn’t appreciated. Typically, I respond back to them in French, and they get the hint.

8. Other Americans

Sometimes, you’ll run into other Americans who are being particularly American and not acting respectfully of French culture. You’ll just cringe and think, “You, you are the reason I’m constantly trying to prove negative stereotypes wrong about Americans. You’re giving me a bad rep. Stop that. Stop that now”.

PS: I was considering doing a blog post prior to this titled “8 things about France that Americans will absolutely love and miss about France when they return to the US” so that I wasn’t giving you all the wrong impression. Life in France is quite awesome, but it doesn’t come without its own share of frustrations.

PSS: Notice how I didn’t say anything about French people. Well that’s because I’ve found French people to be very nice and not at all rude or arrogant like the stereotypes say. Suggestion: learn about French culture and about their conceptions of manners. Shocking, it’s different. If you adapt, you’ll have few problems. Tip number one: say Bonjour

Art museums in Paris: Thoughts on the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay, and the National Picasso Museum

It's the post you all have been waiting for - the one where I actually start to talk about things I’ve actually done in Paris, rather than drone on about my “introspective” thoughts on living in another culture! *cue collective sigh of relief*

So for the post I’m going to talk museums, and more specifically 3 art museums that I have seen so far during my escapades around Paris.

The Louvre

Ok, the first museum I visited in Paris was the Louvre (aka the one with the glass pyramids and the surprisingly small painting of a women who’s looking at you like she knows something that you don’t know).

I had previously visited the Louvre when I was in Paris back in 2007. However, the Louvre is so big that you could visit it multiple times and still not see half of the artwork. It also has a lot of different sections with diverse artwork. There’s the European Renaissance art, the sculptures, the Egyptian and African art sections, the Islamic art section, and Napoleon’s Apartment (you know, the guy who conquered all of Europe because he was compensating for something).

For me, my favorite sections are the Egyptian and African sections, the Islamic art section, and Napoleon’s apartment. I don’t love the European art section. Here’s the reason: It’s constantly crowded, thanks to that little old painting called the Mona Lisa (or La Joconde in french, which will help you follow the signs). Additionally, I find it to be a little boring. Don’t get me wrong, the talent of artists is phenomenal and clearly evident. But where’s the creativity? I’m constantly thinking “oh woah, another picture of a fat naked lady with a bowl of grapes next to her…or wow, look at that totally original, never been done before biblical scene”. It’s just not for me.

PS: Really find the Mona Lisa incredible? Well, I personally think you would have a better experience buying a poster and admiring it in the privacy of your own home. Why? No elbows in your face, no flashes in your eyes from the cameras, and less b.o. wafting into your nose. The crowds are pretty ridiculous.

Musée d’Orsay

Excuse me if I geek out a little for this next one, but this museum ROCKS. If you only have time for one museum during your stay in Paris, go to this museum.

The Musée d’Orsay is best known for its impressionist and post-impressionist collections featuring artwork by Manet, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh, and lots of other incredible french painters.

The museum itself was once an old train station that has since been renovated. The building alone is gorgeous, but the artwork adds a final touch. I’m going to let the artwork speak for itself, so enjoy some pictures of the artwork I took while I was there

Right now, there is an exhibition going on about prostitution during the late 1800′s in Paris. Apparently, a lot of the big artists and writers of the time focused their work on prostitution.  Read the NYT article here. I was able to visit this exposition last weekend, and it was definitely interesting to check out. If you think you're not really interested in coming across photographs or paintings of naked prostitutes, don't worry. The more racy parts of the exhibition are in very well marked 18+ rooms. Don't go in if that's not your thing. Everything in the main exhibition area is much more subdued. I believe this particular exhibition is open until January 2016.

PS: Afterwords, head to the Seine, conveniently located right next it, and walk along the banks admiring the view of the city.

Musée National Picasso

This museum, recently reopened and on the smaller side, is great to visit if you can make time for it. It’s located in the Marais, which was once a historically Jewish quarter. The Marais is now full of shops, cafes, and is super cute.

The museum itself houses artwork from Picasso and from other artists who were part of the cubisme movement. While I can’t say that I understand that artwork, it certainly is interesting to look at. A relatively small museum, you can see all of the artwork in one trip.

PS: Afterwards, treat yo’self to Paris’ best falafel at L’As du Falafel, also located in the Marais… even if you’re reading this, scratching your head, and thinking, “Falafels? What are those???”. Just do it.

Museum Tips

The first Sunday of each month, all museums are open to the public for free. Yahoo! DO NOT GO TO THE LOUVRE. The lines are horrendous. On such a day, go to one of the less well known museums, such as the Picasso museum.

If you’re under 25 and are an EU citizen, it’s free to go to museums! For us Americans, it is just a reduced price. However, tell them you are a student in a university in the EU. Bring a copy of your university card (if you have one). If not, bring a copy of the front page of your passport, and a copy of your visa. Since I don’t have my European university card yet, I’ve been using that and have gotten in everywhere for free with no problem. It may help if you speak french, people tend to be nicer.

Typically, some museums in Paris will stay open late into the evening on Tuesdays. Not many people know this, so it is much less crowded! Check out the website to see if the museum has a day where it stays open late.

Till next time,

Elyse

The Rosy and Not So Rosy parts of living in Paris

So, this weekend in Paris will be my fourth. And a lot has changed in the past three weeks, although not in one big foul swoop, like everything is telling me will happen. They say,  “You’re just going to have this moment of complete culture shock, and you’ll finally get it, that you are in the US anymore”. It’s possible that this is going to happen to me. Quite likely, actually. But as of now it hasn’t. I’ve been slowly realizing differences and coming to understand them. I like it that way. One small hurdle at a time. And there have been a lot of hurdles.

First hurdle: stairs, endless stairs. Picture this: a one hundred pound girl who hasn’t slept in over 12 hours lugging around a 50 pound suitcase with a broken wheel. Searching desperately for an elevator while fending off people who would try to distract her from the fact that they are attempting to steal her possessions by having a her sign a petition.  Did you guess right? It’s me. Finally, I come to the conclusion that there are no elevators in sight. But, I do find an RATP (metro personnel) staff member, a young blond girl who looks around my age. Awesome. Now all I need to do is remember the word for elevator. Sleep exhaustion is not helping the situation, so I pull out my Iphone to check in the dictionary app. Ascenseur. Perfect.

I roll on up with my broken wheeled suitcase. I look at here. I smile. I say, "Bonjour, est-ce qu'il y a…" and then my mind goes blank. What is that word? I can’t think of what it is called in English or in French. I stutter as I search for it. Then she goes: "It’s ok- you speak english? Are you looking for a lift?". In my head, I'm trying to figure out what a lift could be. And then I remember. France learns British English. She means elevator. 

So I am thinking I am back on the right track, when she replies. Turns out, the lifts weren’t working. So I take a deep breath, and use all the strength that is left in my body to carry my suitcase up the two flights of stairs. People get mad that I’m blocking the staircase and they can’t slide by.

That;s just one hurdle, on day one, but different things like that happen every day over here. However, your ability to adapt quickly improves. That’s what everyone who is going to live abroad should look forward to and be proud of: not that there are no longer any hurdles in your days, but that you have learned to adapt quickly and side-step them.

 I’m going to close with one last thought. Here it goes:

A lot of people will attempt to paint a very rosy, ideal, romantic picture of living life in another country. It’s very easy to fall into that trap of mush and gush and wanderlust. And in many ways, my life is very rosy right now. I mean, I am typing this as I look out my balcony window and see the Eiffel Tour twinkling in the distance. That’s great. Actually, it’s more than great, it’s awesome.

But, I think that what makes this experience the coolest are the non-rosy parts of the it. The getting lost just looking for your way home from the grocery store. The forgetting the french word when you’re halfway through the sentence. The surviving on peanut butter sandwiches with the cheapest fruit you could find because you’re a broke college student and cities are expensive. The fact that I wake up and go to class and walk home and sometimes I’ll nap during the afternoon instead of going out exploring because I’m a human and I'm lazy sometimes. It’s all of these experiences, the ones that are genuine and force you to grow- they are the ones that make it worth it.

The view is great, but I’m not just here for the view.

    (Yes, this is my view! And yes, that's the Eiffel Tour over to the right.)

Until next time,

Elyse